20 Most Recent Craftsman 675 Series 190cc 22" Briggs Stratton Rear Bag Front Propelled Lawn Mower () - Page 6 Questions & Answers

tip it on its side and drain it from the dip stick hole it's easy that why but there is a drain plug on the bottom

OK, you have one of two issues, I think. One is not so bad and the other is, well, replacement engine. These mowers are designed so that if you hit a hard object, there is an alignment key that keeps the spark "in time". It aligns the engine crank shaft with the flywheel which is mounted on top of it so that your spark is timed correctly to fire the engine. When you hit an object, that key is designed to shear off and break in order to save your engine from breaking. If this is what happened then you need a $2 part. Problem is, if you're not familiar with engines, you'll need someone to replace it for you at a shop where they can pull the flywheel off (not a very simple task). On the other hand, if your timing key did not shear off, you may have bent the crankshaft and the "fix" for that is usually to replace the engine, as it's not economical to repair. My guess is the first one, By simply removing that flywheel, you'll immediately know (the key is simply a tiny piece of metal that aligns the flywheel with the shaft. If it's broken and your engine is out of time, it will not start. Hope this helps and best of luck to you.
James

Depending on how you stood it up, the gas and oil could be in the air filter or in the muffler, either way its not where it needs to be. Check the air filter and make sure it is still dry and clean. Refill your oil and your gas and go from there.

The tight spot that you are noticing is the compression stroke of the engine. The blade is hooked to the crank shaft, which also means that if you are spinning it by hand and still have the spark plug hooked up to the plug wire, you could potentially start the mower and chop your hand to bits. WD-40 will not free anything up here and the stiff spot you feel is not a problem. Be safe out there.

I can only go by what you say was done. If you took mower to repairman then it should run. If you took to a buddy who thought he knew, WELL.
Try this first. The primer button is a round button usually BLACK, CLEAR, or RED. Look around your mower and you will find it at the end of the carburator. Carburator is opposite the muffler on your mower. With new gas in your mower ,press the primer button three or four times. Try to start. With all you have done it should start. If it doesn't start, think back and try to remember if you hit something while mowing, if you did then your problem is your timing. With the hit you sheared your timing key. This key keeps your fuel ,compression, and spark happily together to keep your engine running.
Check the other things first and please get back to me, I will be more than happy to help you further. GOOD LUCK.

you can always tear the fly wheel off the gap is .20 top dead center before firing on most briggs motors

If you know that you have a good plug, and you don't have spark at the plug, then it is a bad Ignition Coil (Module). If you need further help, let me know.

Good Luck!

Jim

It sounds like you have a bad Ignition Coil (Module). This is how they act when they start going bad. When they get warm, they quit. Some will last up to 20 minutes before they shut down. You can sometimes find a used one pretty cheap at a small engine shop.

Jim

The self propel lever is the bottom one, the top one is the running lever. Have her check the cable coming out of that one. var geo_Partner = '1890d1e7-e721-4f9c-b474-1a19eda23e94'; var geo_isCG = true;

Your mower has a different model number than you posted. It will look like this: 917.388130
I will cite that model number as a reference.
The symptom your describing is usually related to carbration issues. I have seen the low oil level sensor cause the same problem. Only suspect the oil level sensor if you DO NOT have spark when the engine is hot.

This mower has a Briggs and stratton 126T02 series engine on it. I do not have the rest of the engine model number that would be on YOUR engine near the spark plug on the air shroud.

I am using this parts list as a reference only:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/part-model/BRIGGS-STRATTON-Parts/All-Products-Parts/Model-126T020295B1/1245/1503500/P0906026/00003?blt=06&prst=&shdMod=

This is a typical carb.
http://c.searspartsdirect.com/lis_png/PLDM/P0906026-00003.png
The items that need to be removed for cleaning are in the boxes 975 and 117.
Additionally Fuel should flow from the float needle area (Item 134) at a rate that would fill up a spray paint can lid in around 10 seconds. If you do not have this kind of flow rate you need to inspect the fuel tank port and the float needle area for debris. Use carb cleaner in the bowl nut area to clean the main fuel jet orfice. Also make sure the carb is firmly secured to the engine block. If anything is loose it willnot draft fuel properly.
Once you get everything cleaned up it should work normally again.

Thanks for choosing FixYa,
Kelly

you might need to adjust the gap.

I would check out Sears Parts Direct:
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action

You will need your product number, should be on the warning sticker or near the main model sticker on the mower.

Hello,

It sounds like there is sediment in the carb bowl. Remove the gas line from the carb and plug the line with a phillips head screwdriver. Remove the bolt in the bottom of the bowl and carefully tap on the bowl to loosen it without damaging the rubber gasket. Clean the bowl, and blow the ports in the bolt out. Raise and lower the float inside the bowl space to make sure that it is working freely. Re-assemble making sure to seat the rubber gasket properly.
If there is sediment in the bowl, you might also consider an inexpensive in-line gas filter ($6 at Lowe's, etc.).
Best regards,

--W/D--

adjust the valves to .008 on each valve to eliminate the smoking exhaust

Hi
Sounds like you have dirt/debris in your carburetor jets,fuel passages or a diaphgram that is becoming non-flexible.
Be sure to check your fuel tank for water and dirt/debris, if there is water/debris then you need to clean your tank.
Also check you fuel line condition after a while they will degrade and need replacment.
Check/Clean/Replace your fuel filter if you have one.
When you remove your fuel line/s from the carburetor be sure to make a drawing to how the lines are connected to the carburetor.
Also make sure you are using fresh fuel...and oil mix if your using a two cycle mower or weedeater with the oil to the right mixture and not too much oil as it can cause hard starting.
If the mower/weedeater is over a couple of years old, then I recommend that you buy and install a new carburetor repair kit,because the diaphragm will get hard and that will cause it to be hard to crank.
Sounds like you will need to clean the carburetor or replace your carburetor internal rubber parts like the diaphgram and O rings.
I recommend that you use a laquer thinner type cleaner to clean and dissolve the laquer build-up in the float and needle jet passages.
Be sure to remove all plastic and rubber parts before using the laquer thinner because it can dissolve the plastic parts and render them unuseable.
Be sure to use compressed air to blow out all the fuel and air passages.
Be careful when blowing out the passages, because there are sometimes small rubber type seats in the bottom of some of the passages.
Sometimes you can get by with priming the carburetor or using starting fluid and letting it run a few times like that and it will flush the gunk out of the jets,but most of the time you will need to rebuild the carburetor.
Keep in mind that the float (if you have one) for the carburetor must be level when you go to reassemble the carburetor or follow the instructions you get with the carburetor kit.
When you clean your carburetor and remove the jet screws, you will first need to lightly seat the jet screws.
But before you lightly seat the jet screws count the number of turns it takes to seat the jet screws from their original position.
Be sure to mark the turns down on a piece of paper.
That way when you put the jets back in, you know to lightly seat them first and then turn them back out to their orginal position before you started.
Once you have your carburetor rebuilt that should solve your problem.
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