First, what type capacitor is it? If it looks like a small can, then this will be a polarized canister type. There should be a small band on one side with arrows and probable plus marks. The wire below the can on this side will be the positive side of the cap. Make sure you note where and how you remove it from the circuit as a new one will have to go back in the same order. Look on the side of the can, you should see a number followed with a figure that looks like a 'u' with a line on both sides. This will mean microfared. Which is a unit of measure. (Example. 1000 u ) would mean one thousand microfared. (Micro is a measure for parts of a million). Now note the physical size. Very important since this determines the power handling capability. Do not reinstall a new part that is different. Now you are on your way to a complete repair. Take the old part and try to find a local electronic parts store. You can usually buy an entire pack of these for a few bucks. You can also search online. You may also use a cap of the same type from an old circuit board if one is available. NOW IF THE CAP IS A SMALL CERRAMIC TYPE, this one will look like a small round disk, usually light brown in color. This one can be reinstalled in either direction. It is not polarized. There should be a number on one side, (example: 1000 u) .the size also matters just like the can type. Replace with identical type. If no number is present, take the part to your local electronics store. (Radio Shack for example). If this fails, I would go on line and find the manufacture of the product. You may also search REPAIRCLINIC.COM they carry a large line of parts. Hope this helps.
@RANDY P. The capacitor was blown to peices. No volts or uF are reconizable. I tried the manufacture. No helpful info. The amp is A8000T AUDIOBAHN.
In this case you most likely have other damage. I would try to replace the circuit board. Go to REPAIRCLINIC.COM with the model name and number. The circuit board should have a number as well. You may find a replacement board at a reasonable price there. Hope this helps. Evidently someone ran a lot of power thru your unit to blow a cap like that.
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SOURCE: P4004 - Blown Components
if burned components are on output stage or amplifier section on board..Then look at the oposite side of amp..Both amplifier section should be a mirror image oof componentc from other..that way you can know the values of parts.If they are on power supply section ..Then you might need manual if available..
SOURCE: Car amplifier parts repair question
Does'nt matter what brand, and you seem to know about keeping the correct values etc. What I would look for are Audio grade caps.
If it's a powerful system I usually put higher values in rather than the stated values on the caps, providing the physical size is correct.
Don't know if you still have the user manual but it's here if you want it.
http://www.retrevo.com/s/Adcom-GFA-4404-Car-Amplifiers-review-manual/id/582bh550/t/1-2/
SOURCE: ALPINE MRV F400 AMPLIFIER
your best would be to contact alpine for that info on there website...that is a old amp .
SOURCE: CAR AMPLIFIER - GTO 4000 (600 W)
These are resistors.
I don't have the schematic but if there is an R361, it may be the same as the other Rx61 components.
Mouser and Digikey are good sources if you're in the US.
If you send me a good quality photo of the internals of the amp, I may be able to provide more information.
babin_perry@yahoo.com
SOURCE: i have an audiobahn A8000t amp with the protection light on
There are many different ways that an amp can fail but the two most common failures are shorted output transistors and blown power supply transistors (< those are not blown). There are several types of protection circuits in amplifiers. The most common are over-current and thermal. The over-current protection is supposed to protect the output transistors. Sometimes it doesn't work well enough to prevent the failure of the output transistors but it will work well enough to shut the supply down before the power supply FETs are destroyed. If the amp remains in protect mode, goes into protect mode or blows the fuse as soon as the remote voltage is applied, shorted output transistors are almost certainly the cause.
If the fuse protecting the amp is too large, if the protection circuit doesn't respond quickly enough or if the power supply is poorly designed, the power supply transistors may fail. If you see a lot of black soot on the power supply transistors (near the power transformer), the power supply transistors have failed. Soot on the board doesn't necessarily mean the transistors have failed. Sometimes, technicians don't clean up the mess from a previous failure.
In general, when a transistor fails, it will either short (common for output AND power supply transistors) or open (common for power supply transistors). Transistors act like valves. They control the current flowing through a circuit. A shorted transistor acts like a valve that's stuck open (passing too much current). In the case of an output transistor, the shorted transistors tries to deliver the full rail voltage to the speaker output terminal. If you've ever seen a damaged amp that pushed or pulled the speaker cone to its limits when the amp powered up (common on some Rockford amplifiers), that was almost certainly due to a shorted output transistor. When checking transistors, you most commonly look for shorted connections inside the transistor. You do this by using a multimeter to look for low resistance connections between the transistor's terminals.
Note:
I used the terms short and open on the previous paragraph. A short (short circuit) is a path through which current flows that should not be there. An open (open circuit) is a break in the circuit.
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